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The Alamance Foodie ~ Takes and Tastes on Local Foods and Eateries

A short trip to The Root Trackside

August 14th, 2011, 11:30 pm by

It’s hard not to think of Sidetrack when walking into The Root, a new restaurant located on 110 Lebanon Ave. in Elon. After all, The Root is taking over the site formerly occupied by that once popular sandwich establishment. The interior fixtures remain much the same — it still has those great wooden booths. The wait staff is decidedly college age.

Those are all pluses. The Root (Trackside) also offers a slightly more adventurous menu with lots of vegetarian options or old favorites put together in unusual ways. That’s what drew us there last week. We were up for something different. And because my spouse is a vegetarian, places with the most options in that area always get our attention.

The Root has been open less than a month and it reminds customers of that with notes on the tables asking for patience and also adding that more dinner specials would be coming in future months. I noted on the night we were there that the one dinner special was a flat iron steak with mashed potatoes and mixed greens.

I was tempted but chose instead to get something I’ve never had before — the falfalel burger. It was a sizeable cake on a warm bakery-style brioche bun and topped with a mild cucumber sauce, romaine lettuce and tomato. I liked it and would get it again. My one observation is that it could’ve been a tad spicier with a little more of the earthy chickpea flavor often found in smaller and more flavorful chunks of falfalel at venues like, say, Mykonos on South Church Street in Burlington. I had a pick of interesting sides, including quiona salad. Because my regular diet includes quinoa I decided to splurge and go with the fries. I got a ton of them — hot, crispy delicious.

My spouse ordered the caprese sandwich, an Italian concoction with pesto, fresh tomato and mozzarella. It’s among her favorite sandwiches. This one arrived on a french roll that looked too doughy and white — but tasted just fine. In fact, she liked it but was thrown by the presentation. Where the sandwich didn’t truly measure up was in its tomatoes. This early in August my dining companion was expecting fresh and locally grown product. The sandwich arrived with slices that were barely ripe and had very little zest. The pesto, on the other hand, was fresh and full of flavor. It helped save the day. All in all, my spouse enjoyed the sandwich, but she thought it could’ve been better.

She liked her side item — sweet potato fries — very much. I sampled a couple and found them tasty with just a hint of sweetness. For my taste, no one can get sweet potato fries crisp enough.

Fare at The Root is reasonably priced. My falafel burger was $5.95 and well worth it with the bound of fries. The caprese sandwich checked ina t $6.35. Most burgers and sandwiches are in the $6 to $7 range. Salads are varied an also reasonable. I look forward go going back and trying the Asian salad.

All in all we liked our first trip to The Root. It’s a solid college town eatery where sandwiches rule the day. I plan to go back later and offer a mure full-length review after it’s been open for another month or two.

On the growl

July 29th, 2011, 2:09 pm by

Good beer has never been easier to get. After decades of fairly pedestrian offerings from the standard domestic and foreign suppliers, the speciality brew market has exploded in recent years. Once the backbone of small shops, microbrews or other offbeat beers are now widely available in grocers such as Harris-Teeter and Lowes Foods.

It’s been a welcome change and then some, especially for those of us who no longer take home a 12-pack and simply pound one after another. I’m a major proponent of drinking less — far less — and enjoying it far more.

That’s why the cost of a six of Red Oak, brewed in Whitsett doesn’t strike me as high. Obviously when compared to Budweiser, though, it is. But because it will last awhile I don’t mind paying a few bucks more for something that has a taste I enjoy. Better yet, I like to find something new that I haven’t tried before.

That brings me to the Company Shops Market Co-Op on Front Street in downtown Burlington. Most with an abiding interest in quality food — and quality local food — are well aware of what advantages the co-op offers. It’s a huge godsend downtown where lunch options are limited. Hey, I love Zack’s and Boston Sandwich Shop — but every day at either one and it’s a recipe for a future appointment with a cardiologist. The co-op offers a few healthier options. There’s something for vegetarians there, too.

One of my favorite things about the co-op is the beer section. It’s a wide and interesting selection of regional and national brews that cater to nearly every imaginable taste. They stock dozens of beers there I haven’t tried yet.  But I’m getting there.

At the moment I’m sampling a selection of regional beers offered in 64-ounce returnable jugs known as “growlers.” Every Friday night I buy one to take home for the weekend. On Monday, I return the bottle and get my $4 deposit back. So far I’ve tried samples from Carolina Brewery in Pittsboro (the amber ale and lager); Fullsteam in Durham (Southern lager, IPA and Carver –the latter brewed with sweet potatoes; and Green Man from Asheville (Wheat ale).

I’ve loved elements of all three craft brewmakers. My favorite so far, though, is the Green Man, which is also a little more expensive. I’ll be saving that for special occasions.

I’ll try to write about my journey through the local beer world over the next few months. Feel free to post your favorites in the comments section.

Cheers.

No taste like home

July 24th, 2011, 4:14 pm by

I never knew my mother-in-law. She died before I even met her daughter. The ironic part of the story is this. Had Teresa Occhiogrosso Papandrea not passed away of congestive heart failure in late 1994, chances are I would never have met the woman who would become my spouse. Because the then Roselee Papandrea came to Swansboro to help look after her father after her mother passed away, she entered the office of the Jacksonville Daily News looking for a job. The rest is history.

But in many ways I feel as if I know Roselee’s mother. Like her dad, Roselee’s mother is a larger-than-life figure who is spoken of often. Never more so, though, than at special gatherings where food is served. In an Italian family how could that not be the case? Food is a major gathering point. Almost no visit to an Italian household can be accomplished without food, coffee or wine. Don’t get me started on Italian cookies direct from a Brookyn bakery.

When we eat at Prego’s, the Italian restaurant in Burlington owned by Vincento Hernandez, all of those Italian family memories come flooding back. When Roselee tastes the red sauce there, it’s like going to a gathering of the Occhiogrossos or Papandreas. Apparently, Vincent studied under some Italians who knew their stuff. As a result, Prego’s Original Trattoria is among our favorite places to go, ever.

Last night we saw something called ricotta cheesecake on the desert menu. It sounded a lot like the cheesecake Roselee’s mother used to make — something Roselee calls “pizza dolce” or sweet pie.

We had to try it. Based on our experiences at Prego the odds were good that it would be like a taste of home.

It didn’t disappoint. Roselee’s mom made it with chocolate chips lining the bottom. Prego, instead, iced the top wtih gelato. But the consistency and taste of the cake itself was spot on in terms of Roselee’s memories. Mine, too. Roselee has replicated her mother’s “pizza dolce” from time to time. We enjoyed the version at Prego very much.

It’s what keeps us going back.

A Southern favorite

July 17th, 2011, 11:46 pm by

OK, a lot of time has passed since the last post here and for that I apologize. The reason is pretty simple really. About mid-December I realized my pants no longer fit.  Because I’m way too cheap to buy new ones, the only other alternative was to modify my diet.

And I have. Mashed potatoes? Out. Burgers and fries? Out. Pizza? Out … for the most part. I even cut my visits to Burlington landmark Zack’s Hot Dogs to once every two months instead of once a week. So what foods are in? Well, there’s quinoa for one. Grilled chicken or fish are right there, too. Mixed vegetables and salads. I eat a lot of nuts and fruit throughout the day. My beloved barbecue corn chips and Andy Capps Hot Fries have been kicked to the curb.

The result? Two inches off my waist and 10 pounds from the scale.

But we still treat ourselves with a dinner out one night a week — but largely we stick to our favorites. Although a couple of weeks ago we tried Jazzabel’s in the original Dan Thai location and liked it a lot. I’ll do a longer review of it after another visit.

But I remembered that last summer I wrote about the summertime fried squash appetizer at the Village Grill and this past weekend I saw on the restaurant’s Facebook page that it was a current special. We went there pretty much just for the fried squash.

We weren’t disappointed.

It arrived crispy, exceptionally hot and with a little ranch dressing for dipping. The industrial deep fryer makes a huge difference. My biggest complaint with fried squash at home is that it seldom arrives on the table hot. It’s my habit to nibble as my wife is preparing it.

The restaurant option works better for us. Maybe for you, too.

Chili today …

February 1st, 2011, 12:06 pm by

Nearly everybody has an opinion about chili. They love it. They hate it. They make it — and make it the absolute best way.

And there’s no arguing with them.

 Yes, the annual Times-News Chili Bowl cookoff brought out the chili animals at our office. Copy editor R.J. Beatty declared his to be the absolute best. New media director Roger Creasy, a restaurant guy from way back, is high on his very own vegetarian chili. Not sure what the point of veggie chili might be but what the heck, to each his own.

In fact, I’d say my favorite chili is that made by my spouse, who’s a vegetarian but is a good enough sport to mix her concoction with ground beef and ground turkey.

I’m sure R.J. would snort at that particular combination.

Anyway, as a result of all this bold talk — and because Times-News associates can’t enter the Chili Bowl cookoff, we may have our own friendly in-house competition. That is if we can get all parties to agree to behave themselves and abide by the decision of the judges.

That’ll be a hard sell.

For the record, I sampled the winning Chili Bowl entry this year and found it to be outstanding. Robert Stogner took home the prize with a recipe that R.J. found to be much to his liking. Said it sort of resembles his.

But not exactly.

Here’s the winning recipe. And if you have any idea where the best place to go in Alamance County for chili might be, please leave a comment. I’d like to sample some.

Robert Stogner’s chili recipe

2 pounds ground chuck
½ pound hot Italian sausage
3 15-ounce cans of dark kidney beans
1 15-ounce can of tomato sauce
1 15-ounce can of diced tomatoes (seasoned with garlic, basil and oregano)
1 12-ounce can of tomato paste
1/8 cup rinsed, chopped jalapenos
Half of a red bell pepper
Half of a yellow bell pepper
2 cups medium-heat, thick salsa
2½ tablespoons ground cumin
1½ tablespoons chili powder
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper
½ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon onion powder
½ teaspoon garlic salt
Stubb’s Liquid Hickory Smoke
1 tablespoon olive oil
6 ounces of your favorite beer

   Cut bell peppers into wide length-wise strips. Toss peppers with olive oil and a few dashes of Stubb’s Liquid Hickory Smoke and set aside.

   Brown meat, adding garlic salt and strain fat. Add all other ingredients including a few dashes of liquid smoke to a stew pot over medium heat, rinsing the cans with the beer. Bring to a low boil, stirring frequently, then lower heat. Grill bell peppers, searing them over medium-high flame for 3 to 5 minutes. Chop bell peppers. Add meat and bell peppers to stew pot. Simmer covered over low heat for 2 hours.

 

The best of the best?

January 17th, 2011, 11:50 am by

Triple A of the Carolinas released its annual list of Five Diamond ratings for hotels and restaurants in North and South Carolina. As ususal, it’s an elite collection.

How elite? Well, the Five Diamond rating is the top designation awarded each year by AAA to  qualified hotels and restaurants after an anonymous visit by an inspector. Only 0.28 percent of the more than 58,000 annual inspections conducted nationally result in a Five Diamond rating.

And no, the Saxapahaw General Store didn’t make it this year. That doesn’t mean it won’t get there someday. In the restaurant world, perhaps no establishment got more press over the past year.

In all, four sites in North Carolina made the cut. Most surprising is the omission of Il Palio in Chapel Hill or its home base, the Sienna hotel. One or the other is usually there.

Times change. The new addition for North Carolina is the Ritz Carlton in Charlotte. Cary’s Umstead Hotel and Spa made it for a fourth straight year. No surprise at all that the Fearington House Restaurant in Pittsboro is listed for the 16th year while the Fearington House Inn is back for a 17th time.

I have to go to both in the coming year just to check it out.

South Carolina winners, listed with the number of years on the list, are; The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island (5 years), Wentworth Mansion (8 years) in Charleston, Woodlands Inn (14 years) and the Dining Room at Woodlands (15 years) in Charleston.

“Five Diamond lodgings and hotels offer the highest level of hospitality in the most luxurious surroundings,” said David E. Parsons, president and CEO of AAA Carolinas.

“These properties are unique, enticing and extraordinary — complemented by an extensive array of personalized services for every guest, which consistently exceeds the expectations of even the most refined traveler,” said Parsons.

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Reader delighted to find old haunt in new location

December 2nd, 2010, 1:50 pm by

Restaurant review submitted to the Alamance Foodie by reader Jay Smith of Snow Camp.

I am a longtime customer of the recently closed (for relocation and renaming) Monterrey Mexican restaurant on Garden Road next to the Wal-Mart. I have no connection or relationship to this establishment other than as a very pleased customer.

A few weeks ago Monterrey closed and has now re-opened with a new name (La Cocina) and new location. They are now located in the front of Holly Hill Mall on Huffman Mill Road.

The ownership is the same as Monterrey. The people are the same. The food is the same — and great.  The location is new and much larger.

There is also a La Cocina on North Church Street in Burlington and several others in the Triangle area. All are owned by different brothers in the same family. Each has their own restaurant, but together they share the knowledge and enthusiasm for wonderful Mexican dining. While this does not make a difference to the typical diner, it makes a huge difference in making a restaurant run extremely smoothly under any circumstances.

Last night, Nov. 23, was the new La Cocina’s “soft opening” and today (Nov. 24) is their grand opening.

I was honored to be invited to the soft opening and was extremely happy with the experience. The new facility is wonderful. Everything is absolutely brand-new.

The restaurant is very comfortable; the seating, the tables and booths, the bar, etc. The staff, as always, was superb. The staff act like, and are, professionals; they take their work seriously and made my visit a pleasure.

The speed of service, as always, will make your head spin. I don’t know how they can provide such fast service when some other restaurants can’t seem to organize a glass of water. It is rare to not have your free hot chips and salsa within 60 seconds. It is rare not to be greeted by your waiter within 180 seconds. If you want to eat quickly, the food comes out of the kitchen at blazing speed. However, if you want a more leisurely dining experience, as I do, just let them know. You can be in and out as fast as you want.

The food quality is superb. Everything is fresh and cooked exactly how I want it. In several years of dining with these folks, I have never had a bad meal.

If you enjoy an adult beverage, you will not be disappointed. The new location has a full bar, separated from the four dining areas. If you enjoy a serious Margarita, their “Texas” is to die for. Be careful, though, their “medium” is the size of most places’ “enormous.” A designated driver is a must. Unlike some establishments that will remain unnamed, La Cocina has a “generous pour”.

The kitchen was spotless as you would expect in a new facility. However, having watched the kitchen crew at the old location, they take sanitation extremely seriously, tearing down everything every day.

For me, it was a “difficult” few weeks between the closing of Monterrey and the opening of La Cocina on Huffman Mill Road, but I am pleased to have them back, better than ever.

If you enjoy Mexican food, you have to try La Cocina on Huffman Mill Road in Holly Hill Mall. If you don’t think you like Mexican food, maybe this is the time to reconsider: try one of their steaks or the shrimp; you may be surprised!

Morsels to go: Familiar faces in different places

August 30th, 2010, 4:01 pm by

Chris Russell is branching out again. One of Burlington’s most successful restaurant owners is adding a pub to his stable of enterprises.

Russell, the owner of B Christopher’s and B’s Bistro and Microlounge in Burlington and Town Table in Elon, is taking over the Lighthouse Tavern in Elon from the university, according to a report in The Pendulum, the student newspaper. Russell plans to open College Street Tap House on Sept. 17. It’ll operate Wednesday through Saturday.

The new operation will focus on brew and live music, according to the Pendulum. Russell may bring food over every so often from Town Table — or cook a pig on special occasions.

For the past year the college has operated The Lighthouse as a special events site and bar for students. Russell’s format, which will include local musical talent and 12 to 15 beers on tap, should prove more popular.

Southern cookin’ and all that jazz

Coming soon — in October anyway — will be a new restaurant from Dan Doby who started Dan Thai with his former spouse a couple of years ago.

Doby’s new venture will be called Jazebel’s and will specialize in South Carolina lowcountry cuisine. The executive chef is Absolon Thomas, a Charleston, S.C. native who has most recently worked in the restaurant business on the Gulf of Mexico.

 So the man knows his shrimp and grits.

The site, housed at the old Dan Thai location at 3281 S. Church St., will also be a jazz club, featuring area musicians.

The former Dan Thai site was vacated a couple months ago when Doby’s former partner Palinda Mongkhonkham, took the restaurant down two doors, changed the menu a little bit and renamed it Thai Similun. It’s located at 3275 S. Church St. And it’s still very good.

 Speaking of Thai …

At the State of Alamance breakfast Friday at Alamance Country Club an economics professor from Elon University made a restaurant observation while comparing Burlington in 1995 to Burlington today.

“Who would’ve believed in 1995 that there would be three Thai restaurants in Burlington,” Greg Lilly said and drew chuckles from the crowd.

While one of those restaurants is in Elon, Lilly’s point is well taken — and it’s a line I’ve heard from a few longtime residents, too. I might add that not only does the area have a largesse of Thai restaurants — but exceptionally good ones. Thai Simulan remains an outstanding Thai option and is a popular stop. I’ll also put in another plug for Anna’s Thai on Front Street in Burlington. I had the spicy catfish there the other night and it was excellent. Only two tables were occupied at 7 p.m. — and one of those was my own.

Folks, go to Anna’s Thai while you can.

B’s Bistro and Microlounge

August 25th, 2010, 12:55 pm by

B’s Bistro and Microlounge

Where: 2457 S. Church St., Burlington.
Hours: Lunch and dinner and late night.
Dress: Casual. 
Cost: Reasonable. No entrees exceed $20 and most are in the $10 to $15 range. The bistro-style menu encourages diners to purchase low-cost appetizers — or simply have an appetizer with drinks. Salads are extra, but inexpensive. Two can eat there comfortably for less than $50 and have the works. The tab woul be  much less for a burger or a pizza.  Or folks can simply graze the tapas selections for much less.
Menu: Restaurant tries to promote casual dining done finely. Steak, fish and pork options are simple but well presented. A variety of burgers and flatbread pizzas help create the cafe atmosphere. Appetizers range from a routine bread basket with olive oil to rare ahi tuna slices and hummus with pita chips. Specials are usually interesting and often feature one fish option. There is a burger special on Tuesdays and a pizza and vino feature on Thursdays.
Something for vegetarians? Yes. Many of the pizza options are veggie friendly.
Cocktails: Beer, wine and mixed drinks. Small but tasteful wine list. The same can be said of the beer offerings as well. Great choices, including some from microbreweries across the nation. 
Synopsis: B’s Bistro has a sidewalk cafe theme and usually more than meets that standard. The atmosphere is inviting and cozy with small tables that promote close conversation and friendly gatherings. The menu doesn’t offer a wide variety of options, nor does it need to. The food is well-executed and outside the norm for most Burlington restaurants. It’s a good place to bring friends.
Reservations: Not usually. Note, thought, that this smallish restaurant seats only a few even when outdoor tables are available. Outdoor seating is available.
Phone: 336-226-5555
Website: www.bsbistroandmicrolounge.com

——————

I’m not sure if my prospective boss was trying to impress me in 2007 when he took me to B’s Bistro and Microlounge for my first foray into Burlington’s restaurant scene — but that was the result.

A couple of weeks later, when my spouse came to town to help us find a house, I took her there, too. I was definitely trying to create a good impression. Suffice it to say, she got one. And it helped that the real estate agent who showed us a half-dozen houses just an hour or two before, was there with his spouse on a Friday night.

“Does everybody eat here?” my wife asked.

Actually, now that I think about it, just the right number of people are drawn to the the cafe-ambience and menu offered by B’s Bistro and Microlounge, which is located beside B Christopher’s, the fine-dining steakhouse also owned by Chris Russell. In this little strip of buildings off Church Street Russell has created the best of two dining worlds. It’s a shame that his other effort in the same cluster of buildings, Benjamin’s Seafood, didn’t catch on. Fresher seafood would’ve helped.

Thankfully, B’s Bistro has shown staying power with its Burlington audience. It’s the kind of restaurant that sometimes skips smaller towns where only two options are available: Fine dining that’s a little too swanky for frequent visits or chain restaurants like the Olive Garden where lines are simply too intimidating. B’s Bistro is in that area in-between where restaurants are neither too crowded nor too loud; where the service excels and with options that fit the tastes of an epicurean or just someone who wants a tasty burger and a cold beer.

We stopped in for dinner at B’s Bistro a couple of weeks ago. It was our first visit in quite awhile. While B’s is one of my personal favorites among Burlington’s restaurants, sometimes it’s overlooked when we make our final dinner plans. That needs to change.

Entering the restaurant I immediately remembered why I like it so much. The rich wood decor is inviting and small tables create intimate conversation nooks. The bar is a central part of the dining area. Our waiter was dressed in the manner of someone working at a french sidewalk cafe and immediately took our drink orders and offered information about the nightly specials.

The menu at B’s Bistro is small but interesting, which is part of its charm. The entree selections aren’t complicated or high in number but are rendered well. People looking for chicken served 10 different ways are out of luck here. There are sections for Tapas (appetizers), soups and salads, entrees, flatbread pizzas and burgers. All are reasonably priced. A party of four or five, for example, could be very well served by ordering plates of appetizers (hummus and pita chips, bread basket, tuna, mussels, etc.) with drinks.

We ordered the seared tuna from the tapas menu. We found it odd that it was served warm — not sashimi style. But the thin rare slices were encrusted with sesame and served with a hearty sauce that didn’t offer the heat of the more standard wasabi-based dips.

The garden salad promised walnuts but none were to be found on this night in either of our salads. The mixed greens, though, were fresh. The champagne vinegarette dressing available at B’s Bistro is among my favorite salad dressings  in town.

My spouse decided to take advantage of pizza and vino night and ordered a flatbread pizza that was one of the nightly specials. The flatbread pizzas are truly a personal pizza — six inches in diamater. She ordered a pizza that wasn’t on the regular menu. The salmon pizza sounded appealing with a parmesean cream sauce an roasted red peppers. And it wasn’t bad. The salmon turned out to be a little dry though, a potential problem with a fish that cooks so quickly when placed in a pizza oven. My spouse has sampled the flatbread pizzas at B’s on a few occasions and likes the regular menu offerings better.

I was much happier with my selection — the steak slices with B’s signature pommes frites. The flatiron steak was perfectly rare and cut in thin pieces. It was easy to eat and flavorful in a sweet onion demi-glace. B’s Bistro is the first place I’ve encountered frites and the only place in Burlington’ I’ve seen them. Frites are shoestring fries in the truest since of the word. I could eat a batch right now.

B’s Bistro is back on my list of primary stops for a casual meal. It’s the kind of place where folks want to be a regular customer.

Morsels to go: Happy birthday to the Village Grill

August 7th, 2010, 11:57 am by

When Randy Cox left a comfortable home managing Burlington’s most popular restaurant in 1985 he did it to make a mark on his own. He struck out for Huffman Mill Road, which wasn’t nearly the restaurant force it is now. In fact, at that time only a few fast food places — and Sal’s — were operating along that stretch of road that connects to the interstate.

But in July of that year Cox opened the Village Grill. It was his goal to offer some diversity in Burlington’s dining scene.

Now, 25 years later, the Village Grill is still going strong and is among the area’s most popular locally owned restaurants.

Cox, who opened the Blue Ribbon Diner a few years later on South Church Street, gained his restauant know-how at the Cutting Board, which at that time was located on Alamance Road. It was Burlington’s premier steak house at that time and even now at its new location is a popular site for steaks and the “Chuckburger.”

“The folks at the Cuttling Board had been very good to me,” Cox said in a press release. “And I didn’t want to be in direct competition with them as a steak house.”

As a result, the Village Grill elected to feature chicken and seafood. In other words, Cox said, we wanted to be “The white meat restaurant in Burlington.”

I’d say he’s succeeded.

The Village Grill is known for its Key West Chicken and dedication to quality specials — including great seafood. Part of the difference is attention to detail and a devotion to fresh locally produced goods. The salads there are top of the line, accompanied with fresh dressings. Speciality items are almost always dishes produced with fresh seafood, vegetables or meats.

Happy birthday to the Village Grill. Here’s to another 25-plus years.

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